Bermuda Post

Friday, Mar 29, 2024

ester manas runway paris fashion week womenswear f w 2022 2023

7 Emerging Designers to Know from Paris Fashion Week

From quintessential French chic to gothic experimentalism.

In recent years, New York has stood out as the fashion capital that offers emerging designers a major platform, but after this season, it's become clear that Paris has its own share of new talent to display. The Paris Fashion Week that just wrapped put an unusual focus on young designers, with many new names added to the official calendar. In between shows from the major brands, we were able to see everything from upcycled beadwork to presentations that verged on performance art. Here, seven of our favorite emerging designers from the fall 2022 collections.

Germanier


Kevin Germanier may have launched his namesake label in only 2018, but it's already been worn by stars like Lady Gaga, Kristen Stewart, and Björk. His work is recognizable, that's for sure: Flashes of intricate, colorful beading line the surface of corsets and miniskirts. The designer sources his beads as leftovers from other design houses and upcycles them into his creations.

For fall 2022, the label hosted its first-ever runway show at the Cristal Room Baccarat, the Paris flagship of the two-centuries-old glassworks company—a perfect fit for the label's aesthetic. Along with more over-the-top pieces, he also presented sequined dresses, tailored skirts, and feathered tops.


Ester Manas


In a season where body diversity took a back seat, Ester Manas's creations stood out. Models of all sizes walked the runway in colorful ruched dresses, skirts and sets with cutouts, and opera gloves.

The label is helmed by Ester Manas and her business partner, Balthazar Delepierre, both of whom studied at La Cambre in Brussels, Belgium, with Manas gaining experience working for Balenciaga, Paco Rabanne, and Acne Studios before launching the brand. Many of their pieces are designed to be one-size-fits-all, meaning they accommodate European sizes 34 to 50 (roughly American XS through 3XL).

It was definitively the most size-inclusive show in Paris, and the brand is currently working to expand sizes even more for future collections.


Weinsanto


Victor Weinsanto made some of the most fun clothing seen at Paris Fashion Week. Think: colorful bodysuits, little black dresses with wild headpieces, and sculptural hats that merged the surreal with couture skill. It's no wonder that Weinsanto is now under the Dover Street Market Paris umbrella, and also nominated for the LVMH Prize.

This season's collection theme was Murder in Paris, and a cast of characters including dancers and friends of the designer walked in the show, with Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu (Sylvie from Emily in Paris) closing the show in a matching hat and dress.


Pressiat


Pressiat distills gothic glamour into a mix of over-the-top silhouettes that often reference Victorian style. Founded by Vincent Garnier Pressiat, who runs in the same circles as offbeat fashion icon Michèle Lamy, the label is now in its third season and just keeps getting better.

The fall 2022 show featured body-positive artist Michaela Stark. Other models wore dresses that trailed real hair down the runway, larger-than-life faux-fur hats, shield-like glasses, and trompe l'oeil body dresses. It all felt very early 2000s-meets-John Galliano for Dior, only looking forward to the future.


Mr. Saturday


Founded by Joey Gollish, the Canadian brand Mr. Saturday showed digitally at Paris Fashion Week this season with a focus on vintage-inspired fabrics, oversized silhouettes, and tailoring with an edge. The androgynous collection was full of streetwear-forward staples for all genders. Gollish took inspiration from Kraftwerk, the German electronic band.

This brand is one to watch for outerwear—you need only look to the extreme padded leather moto jackets, checkerboard Sherpa coats, and cognac leather trench coats to see that. On the womenswear side, unusual shapes took form, such as structured evening hoods, crinkled sleeves, and plush leather bombers paired with floor-length maxi dresses.


MaisonCléo


Even if the name MaisonCléo doesn't ring a bell, you've likely seen the label's pieces on your favorite influencers. The slow-fashion brand does weekly drops of things like little tie tops with sweet collars, frilly summer dresses, and knitwear, all of which feel intrinsically French. Marie Dewet founded MaisonCléo with her mother, and they work together with a small team of seamstresses.

For fall 2022, the designer held her first-ever runway show in Paris, composed of sheer dresses, chunky knitwear, and beach-ready dresses all handmade and ready to purchase on the website immediately following the show.


Kenneth Ize


Born in Lagos, Kenneth Ize is reinterpreting traditional West African fabrics through a high-fashion lens. The designer has gained momentum and a small cult following for his work—and it doesn't hurt that Naomi Campbell has walked his show in previous seasons.

Watch Ize for his structured, colorful suits, which have become his signature. This season, the designer also started to experiment with other silhouettes and techniques, from knitwear to denim short-shorts and oversized, dark outerwear.

Newsletter

Related Articles

Bermuda Post
0:00
0:00
Close
Paper straws found to contain long-lasting and potentially toxic chemicals - study
FTX's Bankman-Fried headed for jail after judge revokes bail
Blackrock gets half a trillion dollar deal to rebuild Ukraine
Steve Jobs' Son Launches Venture Capital Firm With $200 Million For Cancer Treatments
Israel: Unprecedented Civil Disobedience Looms as IDF Reservists Protest Judiciary Reform
Google reshuffles Assistant unit, lays off some staffers, to 'supercharge' products with A.I.
End of Viagra? FDA approved a gel against erectile dysfunction
UK sanctions Russians judges over dual British national Kara-Murza's trial
US restricts visa-free travel for Hungarian passport holders because of security concerns
America's First New Nuclear Reactor in Nearly Seven Years Begins Operations
Southeast Asia moves closer to economic unity with new regional payments system
Political leader from South Africa, Julius Malema, led violent racist chants at a massive rally on Saturday
Today Hunter Biden’s best friend and business associate, Devon Archer, testified that Joe Biden met in Georgetown with Russian Moscow Mayor's Wife Yelena Baturina who later paid Hunter Biden $3.5 million in so called “consulting fees”
Singapore Carries Out First Execution of a Woman in Two Decades Amid Capital Punishment Debate
Spanish Citizenship Granted to Iranian chess player who removed hijab
US Senate Republican Mitch McConnell freezes up, leaves press conference
Speaker McCarthy says the United States House of Representatives is getting ready to impeach Joe Biden.
San Francisco car crash
This camera man is a genius
3D ad in front of Burj Khalifa
Next level gaming
Google testing journalism AI. We are doing it already 2 years, and without Google biased propoganda and manipulated censorship
Unlike illegal imigrants coming by boats - US Citizens Will Need Visa To Travel To Europe in 2024
Musk announces Twitter name and logo change to X.com
'I just lost it' Lowe’s worker fired after 13 years of employment for confronting thieves trying to steal $2K of merchandise
The politician and the journalist lost control and started fighting on live broadcast.
The future of sports
Unveiling the Black Hole: The Mysterious Fate of EU's Aid to Ukraine
Farewell to a Music Titan: Tony Bennett, Renowned Jazz and Pop Vocalist, Passes Away at 96
Alarming Behavior Among Florida's Sharks Raises Concerns Over Possible Cocaine Exposure
Transgender Exclusion in Miss Italy Stirs Controversy Amidst Changing Global Beauty Pageant Landscape
Joe Biden admitted, in his own words, that he delivered what he promised in exchange for the $10 million bribe he received from the Ukraine Oil Company.
TikTok Takes On Spotify And Apple, Launches Own Music Service
Global Trend: Using Anti-Fake News Laws as Censorship Tools - A Deep Dive into Tunisia's Scenario
Arresting Putin During South African Visit Would Equate to War Declaration, Asserts President Ramaphosa
Hacktivist Collective Anonymous Launches 'Project Disclosure' to Unearth Information on UFOs and ETIs
Typo sends millions of US military emails to Russian ally Mali
Server Arrested For Theft After Refusing To Pay A Table's $100 Restaurant Bill When They Dined & Dashed
The Changing Face of Europe: How Mass Migration is Reshaping the Political Landscape
China Urges EU to Clarify Strategic Partnership Amid Trade Tensions
Europe is boiling: Extreme Weather Conditions Prevail Across the Continent
The Last Pour: Anchor Brewing, America's Pioneer Craft Brewer, Closes After 127 Years
Democracy not: EU's Digital Commissioner Considers Shutting Down Social Media Platforms Amid Social Unrest
Sarah Silverman and Renowned Authors Lodge Copyright Infringement Case Against OpenAI and Meta
Italian Court's Controversial Ruling on Sexual Harassment Ignites Uproar
Why Do Tech Executives Support Kennedy Jr.?
The New York Times Announces Closure of its Sports Section in Favor of The Athletic
BBC Anchor Huw Edwards Hospitalized Amid Child Sex Abuse Allegations, Family Confirms
Florida Attorney General requests Meta CEO's testimony on company's platforms' alleged facilitation of illicit activities
The Distorted Mirror of actual approval ratings: Examining the True Threat to Democracy Beyond the Persona of Putin
×